Dec 31, 2012. The dealer T4 and or a Faultmate can reload the CCF; also modify same so that you get newer features such as a clock display on the dash or the 3 click. Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends.

Without going through an extensive list of what occurred in the last week, I'd like to know what you think as far as stealership's rebooting/reflashing the ecm/ecu for a vehicle?! Below are instructions for what most here on the forum call a Hard Reset. A Hard Reset tends to erase some but not all errors codes that have for some reason been created. If the codes are real, they will return so erasing them does no harm. I do not know anything about reprogramming the Engine Computer Module, but if that can be done, it would be a lot more than $125.00. There is something called the CCF, Car Configuration File, which resides somewhere within the 3, maybe bits in a number of locations but for the most part, residing in a chip on a circuit board located behind the interior fuse box with a backup of the info on a chip mounted on a circuit board located within the instrument cluster.

The dealer T4 and or a Faultmate can reload the CCF; also modify same so that you get newer features such as a clock display on the dash or the 3 click signal light feature or maybe daytime running lights. The fact that the problems seem to have disappeared for the moment suggests to me a brake light switch where the second set of contacts, the ones that communicate with the computers, is defective or at least acting that way. The solution is a new switch, a 25 dollar do it yourself kind of thing. The link below is to a number of files I have showing how to replace the brake light switch. While I may seem to regard the switch replacement as the solution to all problems, I will say that if it is not the solution, you will not have wasted your time or money as eventually it will be the source of similar problems. Hard Reset Instructions In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed.

(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.) Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers. Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery. Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery. The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen. (I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.) Connect the negative cable to the positive cable.

(NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other. Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order. Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post. Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post. Start engine and hopefully no or fewer warning lights. Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased.

Nothing much else needs resetting either. You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup. This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure. Reflashing one of the ECUs is normal occurance. Think of it like a firmware upgrade you would do on any home computer, iphone etc. Each of the main computers in the car can be updated.

For example when the transmission ecu was refalshed with new programming when many early years were experiancing hard shifts during rolling stops. My engne ECU was reflashed with new programming for emisssion changes. Sometimes one of the computers just acts up and reflashing the original programming returns it to normal function.

Sometimes the dealer just does it when there is a newer version of an ECU firmware out. The CCF is just for setting option finctions in the car. In essence telling the car what it has and can be adjusted for reqirements in different countries such as headlights on all the time in Canada for example. The main copy resides in the instrument cluster with backup copies in the engine ECU and body control module ECU. The hard reset is just for clearing any faults in the system. Real problems will just come back.

There are always faults such as lost communications that will be in there that happen from time to time and the system stores them even though they do not effect the function of the vehicle. I would not worry about the dealer doing an ECU reflash. $125 sounds about right, it only take about 30 minutes to do the engine ECU. Last edited by trynian; at 12:52 AM. Always great information from other owners on the LR forums. I got through the various problems with my 99' DII for so many years. I drove back from the dealer and this is what they said occurred: 'Tech noted that vehicle is unsafe for road travel due to control arms, right inner tie rod and steering shaft.'

'Tech noted on start up vehicle slow to turn over. Performed charging and battery load test.

Battery failed load test'.' Found fault codes for rear diff actuator and temp sensor. Diff is very loud estimated $3801. Fault code for brake light switch. Now, I spoke with the service manager. I asked about resets etc.

He said I'd probably still get faults ie. Amber brake, rollover etc. (amigos) as long as the diff issue is present.

While driving home, 3 amber's came on and suspension went back to 'limp' mode. Funny thing, it doesn't always force me to use M/S mode to shift gears. I did not get the 'F' on the dash either.

This am, drove to work carefully and I didn't get any faults. Funny thing though, it was at the bump stops and when I started driving, 'Normal suspension mode' kicked on and put in into the normal suspension all the way to work (5 miles, low speed, back roads). I'm replacing my battery today with the OEM Interstate. I will see what the battery replacement will do and let you all know. I'm tempted to get rid of the vehicle because, similar to my 99', as much as I love them the 7 yr itch seems to follow the rovers.

I don't want to say goodbye just yet.crossing my fingers. Let you know.

If the battery failed under test then that's one of the first things to replace. With all that electronics in the LR, an unstable voltage is going to upset a lot of the ECMs and could cause the communication lost messages (which happen anyway and can be ignored if intermittent and fairly rare). The brake switch is a cheap fix and worth doing as again it can be a source of faulty data to the ABS and other systems. As they used to say in programming 101 - garbage in, garbage out. Doubt any of this is directly related to the diff - you can probably get a rebuild kit or a rebuilt diff for less. Is it the locking rear diff? If it hasn't had a fluid change to your knowledge, that would be a cheap place to start and see what happens.

As said above, a weak electrical system can generate all sorts of faults. Back in 2006, until the dealers and LR discovered that a off spec Chinese tail light bulb would generate 'install a new automatic transmission' messages, LR was paying for new tranny warranty installs only to discover that the tranny was not a fault. This may be the same with your rear differential - sounds like you have the E Diff, the fancy one. Even with the new Interstate and I commend you in using the Interstate battery, put something like a CTEK charger on the new battery for about a week of nights to make certain the new battery is fully charged. You will be surprised to see that the charger indicates only a part charged battery. The odds are that the new battery and a new brake light switch will eliminate most of the error messages.

I expect your front end is worn however but it should show on the tyres. Lower A arms are cheap compared to tyres - that is how you have to look at it.

Myself, I am not impressed about having to install replacement inner tie rods ends with it seems every fourth oil change but that seems to be the way it is. In my 50 years of driving, I have only had one lower ball joint actually break and that was a NAPA Chinese special on my 1992 Buick Roadmaster. Fortunately it snapped while I was stopped at a red light - had just hit a bad pothole so that is probably what finished it off. The suddenness of the way the front right corner fell, I thought a sink hole had just appeared in the road.

Again, great information from all of you. I'm tempted to bite the bullet and trudge on and keep my LR3. I put a new interstate battery in it. Old one was 630 CCA. Surprised at that one.

New is 740 CCA. Got it in with no problems. Found one disconnected snap clip toward rear of battery box. Not sure how or when but reattached it. Drove the vehicle.

Still getting the amigo's but on one time did Transmission Fault come up. I do have a right brake/tail lamp out and when the vehicle goes into 'limp' mode, the brake lights stay illuminated. I'm going to order a brake switch. I can't understand how so much will give you trouble if its simply the brake switch. Changed 4 of those on my 99'.

Okay, front end is usually not too bad but something is wrong with the front end. The Big Bang Simon Singh Pdf Download. I will have local friend work on that. Not sure the rear diff. Not sure the actuator would cause issue's and cause the dash to light up. Will keep you all informed. The link below relates to the genuine LR tail light bulbs, part number 264590. As you have now done the expensive thing putting in the official Interstate Battery, along with replacing the brake light switch, you may as well replace all the tail light bulbs.

As with LR parts prices, none make sense and you will probably find the genuine P21/5 bulbs cost less than dollar store bulbs, (well less than parts store bulbs anyway). The quality control of LR bulbs is a bit better with regards to uniformity of amp draw and filament construction. Regardless, before you do, look thru the red plastic; all the bulb filaments should be standing vertical. This is so that when a filament fails, that it will hopefully not fall across the second filament. Download Guitar Pro Free. When this happens, odd signals can be picked up by the computers and lead to false failed transmission messages plus other sillyness.

The link below relates to the genuine LR tail light bulbs, part number 264590. As you have now done the expensive thing putting in the official Interstate Battery, along with replacing the brake light switch, you may as well replace all the tail light bulbs.

As with LR parts prices, none make sense and you will probably find the genuine P21/5 bulbs cost less than dollar store bulbs, (well less than parts store bulbs anyway). The quality control of LR bulbs is a bit better with regards to uniformity of amp draw and filament construction. Regardless, before you do, look thru the red plastic; all the bulb filaments should be standing vertical.

This is so that when a filament fails, that it will hopefully not fall across the second filament. When this happens, odd signals can be picked up by the computers and lead to false failed transmission messages plus other sillyness.

This happened to me! I can't stress how important this advice is. Make sure they are LR bulbs and vertical! I replaced mine with the filaments going horizontal and they failed and I was getting all sorts of issues.bump stop, trans errors, self-destruct mode initiated.lol. Took me about $400 of diagnostics before finding out it was just a bad bulb!