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[] Solder connections on processors seem to be a very common failure point in modern electronics. Consider the Red Ring of Death (RRoD) on Xbox 360 or the Yellow Light of Death (YLoD) on PlayStation 3.

This time around the problem is a malfunctioning Nvidia GPU on an HP Pavilion TX2000 laptop. The video is sometimes a jumbled mess and other times there’s no video at all.

If the hardware is older, and the alternative to fixing it is to throw it away, you should try to reflow the solder connections on the chip. Hi, i have fixed a ps3 with this method and a dead compaq f700. The ps3 worked for over a month, but died after that, i redid the ps3 in oven bake method and it worked like a charm after that. The f700 on the other hand, worked for a month and started the video thing again, i reflowed it successful yesterday and installed the copper shim, but someone said to stress test it to make sure it is fine – bad mistake, the laptop turns on now but with garbled bios, so redoing it with the oven method.

Will post if successful. Did a similar thing to my old hp dv2000. But I did mine in the oven. Lasted about 6 or 9 months then went again so pretty good result. One thing I did do was remove the thick piece of thermal tape/pad they use from the factory. This left a sizable gap between the GPU and the heatsink so I broke off a vain from an old CPU heatsink, cut a couple of pieces out roughly the same size as the pad I removed. I then coated both sides of each with a thin layer of arctic silver and placed them on top of each other in the spot where I removed the pad from.

Worked quite well that way. If you’re patient, you might be able to back up your “no-video” computer before tearing into it — My Dell D830 w/Nvidia Quatro 135 sometimes starts flickering the video, won’t respond to keyboard or pointing device, so I have to shut it down using the power switch. At other times, the Blue Screen Of Death (showing the generic hardware failure code) might occur. The most-often observed failure symptom is a black screen (no video) during and after booting.

In each of many instances of such failures over the past 3 months, I’ve been able to get the computer to boot normally by persisting in the following three steps: 1. Using the power button, shut the failed machine down, then immediately power on.

Wait three seconds for something (such as the manufacturer’s logo) to show on the screen. If nothing appears on the screen within three seconds of power on, repeat this procedure from step 1.

It can take dozens of iterations and several minutes of patience before you are rewarded by seeing your dead screen resurrected. (So much for the popular “definition” of stupidity, which derides trying the same thing over and over while expecting a different outcome. This instance of “stupidity” allowed me to recover use of my computer so I could back it to USB drive before trying other solutions to the problem.) I tried re-installing Nvidia driver from Dell site and the generic driver from Nvidia’s site, but although each worked for a while, the problem returned.

I uninstalled the Nvidia driver software (using Add/Remove Programs) and the computer ran for a few weeks. The video performance was reduced as expected, but it was acceptable, so I thought the problem was solved. But last evening, after pressing the power-on button on the cold computer, there was no video even though no Nvidia driver was installed. This morning, after several dozen iterations of the above 3-step procedure, I got the computer to “come back” once again, but it could fail again without warning. I’m ready to try re-flowing. Thanks for the helpful post!

2011may13(14:34)-teacher •. It work great!

Thank you for posting this. I got a heat gun from Harbor Freight Cheap Covered the mother board with foil except the GPU Ran the heat gun on low setting for 60 seconds And the laptop works It was a good idea to test the solder on the penny first to get the time (seconds) needed for your heat gun to melt the solder properly Just for fun i took off the heat sink pad from the GPU and used good high silver heatsink compound and a penny for a spacer put compound on both sides of the penny and stuck it to the GPU It fit great and oozed out the compound from both sides so nice and tight Thanks again! I have fixed dozens of laptops with the Nvidia chip failure over the last few years.

The repair can breath some life back into a failed machine but you should know, the repair doesn’t last in many cases. My company has finally stopped doing the repair because so many of the machines come back after a while (typically 1 to 2 months). Sure the repair buys you some time, but advice from a tech about laptops, avoid purchasing machines with Nvidia chips in them. They all run hot, beyond design spec. We still get brand new laptops with failing Nvidia chips in them. Just my thoughts. Thank you for your site.

Picking up lots of information here from you and from your correspondents. My laptop is a Compaq Presario V3000, bought nearly 5 years ago, but recently conked out.

Blue lights come on, fan spins, CD drive spins, but no display. Connecting to an external monitor did not assist. Techos in Melbourne Australia tell me “motherboard issue, not economically viable to repair/replace”. So, its a doorstop. I am still grieving for it and refuse to believe it is dead. I’m about to try your methods (wife refuses oven bake method!), but wanted to know if your laptops repaired by bubble wrap, towels, oven bake and hot air gun are still running, how long they did run for (if dead again), and if you had to repeat/try a process? Regards, Nazzag •.

good info but as this problem is due to bad design if overheating is the cause to fit solder doe not stop the overheating issue.So this means problem will reoccur some time again.Ive decided not to buy HP again as I have a dv2ooo and have this hardware problem.The manufacturer is responsible for selling a laptop which should not get so hot and work safely.Why should I the consumer have to pay more to get it fixed or try myself to fix it and risk further damage after buying a costly item.So I bought a new laptop. I repaired Fujitsu Siemens Amilo PA2548 couple of months back with the heatgun trick (I heated GPU and Chipset chips) but today it failed again. All of the sudden power went off and when I tried to power it on again just blank screen and fan was spinning at max speed, just like when it failed first time.

Did heatgun trick again for the GPU only but it didn’t seem to work, then I heated chipset and laptop powered on again with picture and all. So it seems that NVidia NForce chipset chip is the culprit in my case and not the GPU as I initially thought. Now just to wait how long this fix lasts No high hopes. Ivi on this page. This Has to be the most dangerous way to do it there is great chance you will dislodge other components on the mother board the chip is mounted on the board by a heat press plate. If you put flux the solder will run between the pins. Also the manufactures do not use regular 40/60 solder it is lead free solder so it contains more Tin. So when reheating, the heat should be applied to the four sides and not the center.

The center should have a small weight place on it about 10 grams of a non heat conductor. Ie a small metal dish with water will work for very short burst of heat. A short piece of aluminum pipe closed at 1 end. Be warned that too much heat will also separate the laminates of the mother board which can be up to 16 ply. This should not be try unless you are prepared to buy a new computer if it fails. Never put a mother board in the Oven as this will damage the motherboard for sure.

(a toaster with butter and jam would be better than burnt CHIPS •. I can sometimes see a faint image of my screen background and desktop icons in certain lightcould this mean the problem with my screen is different than the one stated here.

It fell a short distance in it’s bag, from the knee down I’d say (strap slipped off my shoulder). Just need to be sure that my black screen with no video on a separate monitor when a tv/appliance/puter store plugged it in briefly on the weekend could be the same as this situation before I embark on something totally foreign to me.

If there is a different fix and you have instructions, please point me in their directionthanks! Toshiba Satellite P10-873 charging problem My problem is as follows When I socket the AC Charger into a power supply, the led light indicator on the charger will be on showing that the charger is working properly, but when i try to connect the charger to the laptop, it will give off a small electric spark upon making contact with the laptop charging port, the laptop itself will show no sign of charging, meanwhile the charger will stop working. But when i disconnect the charger from the laptop again, the led indicator on the charger will come on again showing that the charger is working properly. I use the specified charger for the laptop. My laptop model is Toshiba satelite P10-873.

Pls anyone with a step-by-step guide to solve this problem should please help me out urgently. @ vin, When I socket the AC Charger into a power supply, the led light indicator on the charger will be on showing that the charger is working properly, but when i try to connect the charger to the laptop, it will give off a small electric spark upon making contact with the laptop charging port, the laptop itself will show no sign of charging, meanwhile the charger will stop working. But when i disconnect the charger from the laptop again, the led indicator on the charger will come on again showing that the charger is working properly. It’s hard to tell what is causing the problem but it could be one of the following: 1.

Bad AC adapter. Test your laptop with another AC adapter. Laptop DC jack is bad or not making good contact with the motherboard.

If that’s the case, you’ll have to replace the DC jack. Maybe the jack is bad and shorts the AC adapter. Well it can’t get any worse, plus a new laptop has already been bought, because this one has been to 2 repair shops and both of them said it’s toast. So I’ve pretty much accepted that. I can’t heat only one chip since, like I said before, I don’t know where exactly the problem is and there is no way to find out for sure. I belive it is the GPU causing it because before dying, the graphics got worse and worse. So what would you suggest?

Should I heat only the GPU or all the chips (there is 4 counting the CPU) or the entire board? @ Anietie, my laptop just shut down on me and refused to boot up again. The caps lock light blinks when i turn it on but nothing shows on the screen. Did it happen just recently? Unplug the AC adapter, remove the battery, push on the power button for a few second. Now plug in the battery and adapter and try again. Also, it’s possible the laptop shut down because of overheating.

Did it feel hot on the bottom before shutting down? Wait for a while, let the processor to cool down and try again. Does it start after a while? @ Stephen Piper, I have an HP 6735B laptop that lasted just over a year before overheating.

It was showing a start-up light sequence of 1 flash 5 times. I want to thank you for your post because I have just followed your method using a Fermi FHG2000 heat gun and the laptop lives! I’m glad this method worked for you.

I heated the AMD Radeon GPU and southbridge chips for about 50-55 seconds each after timing this using solder on a penny. I guess this trick works not only on NVIDIA chips. Please report after a while if your laptop still working fine. Hi, My laptop is Acer Aspire 4937G, using Nvidia G105M graphics chipset. It started to shutdown suddenly whenever i run some memory dependent software (movie player, 3D games, multi-tabbing on Chrome).

I tried cleaning the heatsink and everything but still the problem persists. I suspect there’s problem with the graphics card, i removed the old thermal compound(it’s dried out hard as a chunk of play-dough!) and applied some new thermal paste and things got worse. I can’t boot into windows anymore(shuts down at welcome screen). I’ve been using ubuntu(didn’t install drivers for the graphics card, shuts down halfway during installation when i try) and runs fine but would still shutdown if i run any of the software stated above. I don’t think its because of separated graphics chip.

I haven’t tried your way with the oven or the heat gun since i’m afraid of frying the whole board, so it there any alternatives? My HP dv7 was broken. It would blink the caps lock and num lock led code once every few seconds.

How To Get Your Competition Fired Pdf Editor there. According to HP site, that code indicates CPU failure. After reading this and other information on the internet I decided to reflow the ATI GPU and also the northbridge chip while I was at it.

Both of those chips are cooled by the heat pipe. I decided the “oven soak method” would be smelly and ruin other devices on the board. I used a similar heat gun and to monitor temperature I used a thermocouple attached to the top of the chip with kapton tape and another on the underside of the board. I slowly heated the chips by bringing the gun closer to the chip over a minute or two making sure the heat soaked to the underside of the board. I monitored the temperature and made sure to never exceed 200C. I held the temperature for maybe a minute at most until the underside temperature stabilized and then I cooled it down slowly by pulling the gun away from the chip. Thanks for your post, it was very helpful.

@ Joe Shields, Is there a good reason for not just getting the heat off the GPU and letting the computer overheat the GPU its self? I don’t really understand the question. What are the advantages of using these other methods? Different methods require different tools. I think the heat gun method is more reliable but you need to buy special equipment and also it’s necessary to remove the motherboard. The bubble wrap method works too sometimes but it’s not as good as the heat gun method. Also, sometimes the laptop just doesn’t turn on, so you cannot overheat it.

The oven method is cheap but you can damage the motherboard and also it could be dangerous. Sorry I missed a word out of my previous post! Is there a good reason for not just lifting the heat sink off the GPU and letting the computer overheat the GPU its self (if the computer is able to turn on)? Would this not be better than heating the whole computer up using the bubble wrap method (assuming you have a screw driver and can take the back off the computer)? I did this once by letting the computer run without the heat sink for 15 mins, the computer worked for a day, but then it stopped working again.

I have tried this technique again but am getting no signs of life Any ideas? Thanks a lot for your speedy reply! @ Joe Shields, Is there a good reason for not just lifting the heat sink off the GPU and letting the computer overheat the GPU its self (if the computer is able to turn on)? Would this not be better than heating the whole computer up using the bubble wrap method (assuming you have a screw driver and can take the back off the computer)? I think it might work. I don’t know if the GPU can get hot enough when it’s exposed to air.

In order to make it work, you have to melt solder under the GPU. I did this once by letting the computer run without the heat sink for 15 mins, the computer worked for a day, but then it stopped working again. I have tried this technique again but am getting no signs of life Any ideas? I think the next step would be using the heat gun. This goes without saying usally, but make sure the motherboard is plumb when you heat it up, and make sure there is plenty of Kester’s flux on the solder balls and cups. The best rig is infrared reflux, but short of that, a heat gun will do.

Last, make sure you put back the heat sinks with a good quality heat transfer paste – not too much. Clean the surface of the chips real good with alcohol or mild solvent.

Then put on the paste, and pull a razor blade over it to you have a uniform layer of thermal compound, and button it up. Do make sure the house dust and fibers are all out of the radiator/heat exchanger and that the fan is working well.

If it does not work now, it is because it has been cooked before. Bad air flow in the heat exchanger or hair fibers of hypereutectic solder that shorted it out.

Dang tree huggers and their foolish laws!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for all great info it helped me sort out my Sony Vaio’s VGN-NR31J/S GPU.Although i would suggest to everyone to try and download a repair manual from manufacturer and use your guide as well and include the following(at least basic tools) for the job: 1.Anti-Static ESD wristband 2.Liquid flux 3.Heatgun (any whith a concentrated nozzle will do) 4.Heat Paste (preferably silver compound – i used arctic silver 5) My machine works a treat after a day at GPU 69 celcius max testing it on max battery with rally game. A reduction of 8 degrees in total and no crashes. Will let you know if or any hickups as i go along.

Cheers Jim •. After 2 weeks applying the fix laptop failed again.Obviously my own fault as well as ran Furmark and OCCT almost 3 times a day in separate occasions to see how far i can push the machine lol! On next fix will follow same steps as on my old post on Jan 27th and place copper shim on top of GPU chip after applying thermal paste and thermal paste again on top of copper shim and drill a few holes at bottom of plactic cover where GPU is located (using a soldering iron) and using a custom made laptop cooler (which propels air into the holes) Any ideas/suggestions are most welcome and fingers crossed Thanks •. Hello, I have a HP Pavillion DV6000 When I push the power button, the LED blue lights turn on, the dvd drive make noise and hd makes noise activity. Wireless led is amber but the screen.no image or flash of an image on the screen (no post either). Then after 10 seconds the laptop switches off and immediately tries to restart and just restarting over an over again.

Also does not show post or anything through external monitor. Is this related to the graphics chip mentioned in this post?

Any help be fantastic.please •. A good article well written and it does work fine on most of these faults – just one thing i’d want to mention though, something I did by mistake and the board never worked after lol (no loss, i was testing the idea on a very old board). The thing is, laptop boards have the button-cell batteries fitted, and that means the board is carrying the usual 3 volts around.

Also, many boards still keep some voltage from when turned on previously in components such as capacitors. By putting tin foil over the circuit, it can touch and secretly short out the board.

You’l not know it as it’s going to be such a small short, but enough to risk damaging the board in other ways. I suggest, removing the CMOS battery from the board, and hold the power-on button on the laptop down for at least 30 seconds, to help drain as much power as possible from the board. It’s just a thought, and could help explain why some boards refuse to fix again after being heated this way once. Many thanks for the helpful article. I am having issue with my HP Pavilion DV6700 laptop.

Nodv6812nr Problem: Continuously blinking LED lights (No beep) and no display on screen. I have done all basic troubleshooting but no joy After pushing to power button, it gives the continuous LED blinking lights on the keyboard and nothing on the screen. I have tried removing and reseating the hard drive and the memory modules with no change. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Also let me how how to connect laptop hard drive to my desktop(I have SATA Port on my Desktop) Please do the needful. Many Thanks Sumedh Pune (India) •. I am using a Samsung R70 laptop fixed using this method.

Hope the fix last a long time! I used some liquid stuff for improving soldering results, put as much as I could under the nvidia chip. Then heated for 40seconds with my heat gun at position 2.

Let it settle for a few minutes, tried it out before reassembling the laptop, it worked. I then cleaned the old grease and put new grease, and reassembled the laptop.

The entire process took me about two hours. I am happy I don’t have to buy a new laptop, at least not yet.

Repaired a Compaq Presario V6000. First the wireless adapter failed, a week later the screen had no video. Reseating RAM helped, but the next day the problem returned. Reseating RAM did not help this time.

I saw various videos on GPU reflow so I thought I’d give it a try using a Porter Cable heat gun from Lowes ($30) and two layers of aluminum foil around the rest of the board. I kept the heat gun on medium (mine didn’t have an actual temp setting) and made circles around the chip for probably 90 seconds. Let it cool ~30 mins before I hooked up the basics to test it – wireless card and video started working again.

Thank you for your advice, it worked on my VGN-FZ470E – I used the high setting of my heat gun (450C-842F) – 55 Seconds sharp with small round motions at a little less than 1 inch distance. The experiment with the solder gave a 30 seconds time necessary to melt (it became a sphere). So I estimated 55 seconds considering the surface of the chip and the non-direct exposure to the flow of hot air (to ball contacts are underneath the chip). I made sure the gun itself was at temperature before aiming at the chip (in both the experiment and the actual fact) I used aluminum adhesive tape to shape a flower petals style protective shield for the surroundings of the motherboard. I used a different thermal grease for the chip, cpu and memory. I used DRG-33 Thermal Compound – High Performance.

The memory chips had pads, I used the thermal compound between the chips and the pads to make for the loss of uniformity due to the stripping process. So far so good. (A day after). But I have not run high-definition movies yet. THank You again.

Wellpz it worked! I only removed the back cover and heat sinks to be able to access my Asus M51s model. It was “broken” and bubble wrap method didn’t work before for long so I had set it aside. However, today I got most of the necessary things (flux, heat gun) and did it for 53 sec without removing anything other than the keyboard on the other side. Since my thermal paste didn’t come yet, I just turned on the computer (with ram and hard drive inserted) to see if the screen would come on.AND IT WORKS! Hopefully the thermal paste will come tomorrow and I can put everything together so it can be used again.

This method works well! But I thought maybe I could shed a little more light on the causes of this problem, and some measures you can take to prevent it from recurring in the future GPU chips can overheat because the laptop fan/heatsink becomes clogged with dust, hair and debris, or because long term overheating can dry out the thermal transfer paste between the graphics chip and the heatsinks. So make sure you keep all vents, heatsinks and fan assemblies clean and free of dust, by regularly vacuuming them out, or using an air duster to blast out debris (say once a month or so) And after heat-gunning the graphics chip, make sure to replace the thermal transfer paste with a decent quality replacement paste to allow for maximum heat removal from the chip. Another thing you can do on some laptops, is to set the fan to remain on constantly. Usually the options for this can be found in the BIOS settings of the laptop, or in the power management options. I’ve just used this method on a Sony Vaio FZ21E.

Watch out when removing the keyboard because it’s easy to break the connector. It doesn’t need to come out and just moves a fraction to release the ribbon cable. Take your time and research things like how to clean off and renew thermal paste plus organising little bags for screws, photos or notes to help with reassembly.

I found YouTube videos but they were not 100% reliable guides. The FZ21E vaio laptop has three chips under the branched heat sink one of which had a pad which looked rather like dried out plasticene.

I replaced that one with a silicon pad ordered from eBay. I found a tip about using liquid non-clean flux dripped behind the graphics chip with a pipette. I bought some of this too.

Wear a glove to hold the aluminium foil mask in place because things get really uncomfortable. I blasted the chip for 50 secs on the lowest heat gun setting from a distance of around two inches moving the gun around slightly.

Has it worked? I think so, but what nobody posts is temperatures. I’ve installed a little program to show the nVidia 8400m GT readings in the task bar. At start up it shows 48c which rises to 50c. Surfing or using office software it is steady at 52c.

I let Microsoft Security Essentials run a full scan and it was steady at about 60c for five hours. I’m thinking that if the video chip is staying at these sort of temperatures the problem should not recur. Best of luck. Haven’t read all the posts here but would like to add that before placing your heatsink back on top of the video chip place a copper shim between said chip and heatsink. Apply thermal paste to each side of the shim too. Just make sure the shim touches nothing on the video chip apart from the upper metal of the chip itself.

Ebay etc will have tons of these for sale for different machines so check them out. The temperature of the chip will be reduced somewhat. Thus the life of the chip is extended. Don’t tell me this doesn’t work I’ve fixed loads of these darned laptops using the heat gun and shim method. Also keep the laptop cool and at least clean out any dust from the heatsink foils or fins.

Repaste your cpu at the same time. Ignore the buffoons who say touch stuff to check temps etc ask them to stick their fingers into a mains socket to see if the electric is still flowing! I have Toshiba A200-09V Satellite laptop that is dead in the water. I had a tech check it over. He took it completely apart: power AC cord/plug/ socket all good; battery good; checked continuity from power socket all accross the motherboard – all good. Battery good. Removed battery and pressed/held down the power button for 30-60 seconds with and without the Ac plugged in, no response.

The laptop is still dead, will not come on. He couldn’t find any broken or cracked soldering points.

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong. If it is the motherboard does anyone know an inexpensive place in Canada to buy one? Want to thank you for this. We have upped our success rate to 100%! 6 for 6 and the repairs have lasted for over a year some 2 years. Changed a couple things.

We checked how long it took to soften a video chip on a bad board – 2.5 min., on low heat, 1 inch away. We also wrapped the board with tin foil and made the funnel out of a pop can. The last repair was a Toshiba, so it works for more than HPs.

I think much of the success is from removing all the old heat paste from the CPU and video chip and replacing that with good silver stuff. Cleaning out the fans helped too I am sure. Part of the reason for the fails is that the re-flow is not done according to proper soldering techniques. You are essentially re-soldering the chip onto the board. When a solder job is done, flux is used to prevent oxidation.

When a reflow is done, the solder is heated up and oxidation is allowed to occur. The solder points may have been broken before but the fix is only temporary due to the oxidation.

A better method would be to apply free flowing flux to the chip area, hopefully, the flux reaches all areas underneath chip. The best method is to reball and use flux for the solder job, the solder job is stronger and clean. No oxidation. Or less than a reflow.

I’ve acer aspire desktop with the same problem. When i power on the desktop, all the power supply fan and cpu fan working perfectly. But the is nothing shown in the monitor. My cpu using amd processor with ati graphic. So, can i use this method for this desktop motherboard. Coz i already try to replace the ram and the hard disk. But there is nothing happen.

Both my desktop have the same problew. The other one desktop using intel pentiun dual core processor with nvidia graphic. Or should i buy a new one graphic card?

I’ve have a Acer laptop with Intel HD Graphics 3000 and NVIDIA GT630m and i always received BSOD every time i use the NVIDIA when playing a game(15-20mins) but it never happen when using the integrated(INTEL) does this “reFlow” will work with that kind of problem? I’ve used my laptop for over 2yrs and yeah i always play games and use After Effects. Already cleaned my fan and removed the dust and what ever blocking the air from flowing. I’ve tried all driver fix and almost all nvidia drivers actually, and been reinstalling my OS a lot of times. Tried this technique and it worked like a charm. 50 seconds with heat gun on both video chips. Cleaned off old thermal paste on cpu, left thermal pads on the 2 graphic chip arms.

When reassembling used new layer of thermal paste on all chip heat sink contacts. The laptop had split screen and would freeze and crash with any graphic intense app. Finally just gave BSOD and some parity errors. Works perfect now with GPU @ 60deg c.

Saved me buying a new mother board for my daughters laptop. Thanks again. I just resurrected my laptop today. This is the 3rd time the GPU will need reflow.

The previous two times were handled by repairers. This time I did the repair myself I didn’t have a heat gun, so I had to improvise, using a soldering iron to apply the heat.

I placed a small flat metal on the GPU’s flat top which normally makes contact with the heat sink, then applied the fully hot soldering iron on it for about 30 seconds. I also did the same thing to another AMD chip beside the ATI GPU (Note: It was NOT the CPU but has the AMD logo on it, and shares the same heat sink with the cpu and gpu). I tested it and my laptop is back to life!

HP Pavilion dv-5 1111ea featuring ATI Mobility Radeon 3450 graphics AMD Turion x2 processor •. I have really enjoyed reading all the comments and advice, all confirming my suspicions that common design problems with all laptop makes – known issues addressed in next model. Thanks for the info provided freely, I was planning some form of heat treatment myself and decided look first before “reinventing the wheel”.

I have had a thought – instead of heat guns, soldering irons, hair dryers etc, how about a cube of brass – in the oven at 220c. When hot, put on gpu and leave it there until cool. Wouldn’t that do the trick, if so, much safer. If not successful, heat to 230c and try again. I think I will try this myself. I have applied this method on my DELL inspiron N5010 (ATI RADEON GPU) after the complete operation my laptop worked perfectly.

But after one month it sows the same problem. I have done the same thing and it works again.

Till now i have done this 7 times and my laptop shows the same problem again and again in near about 1 month of time.Is there any solution to fix it permanently. And if there is no solution than, can i completely remove the graphic card from the mother board.I want to know that after removal of GPU does laptop will work properly from video card or it will show any problem. I’ve done the heat treatment on two Vaios and the cure is only temporary. If it lasts five months you’ve done really well. The temperatures were monitored after my DIY reflow and the graphics chip never went beyond 60c which is quite acceptable. Clearly the 8400/8600 chips have problems other than those you can solve with a reflow.

When my nVidia chip failed after 5 months I had it replaced with an upgraded chip from a Sony specialist. That’s not cheap and you run the risk of paying some con artist for the sort of repair you can do yourself. picoman April 9, 2015 I have applied this method on my DELL inspiron N5010 (ATI RADEON GPU) after the complete operation my laptop worked perfectly.

But after one month it sows the same problem. I have done the same thing and it works again. Till now i have done this 7 times and my laptop shows the same problem again and again in near about 1 month of time.Is there any solution to fix it permanently.

And if there is no solution than, can i completely remove the graphic card from the mother board.I want to know that after removal of GPU does laptop will work properly from video card or it will show any problem Hello picoman, hi picoman yep u jus remove ur graphic card. Go with another nvidea graphic it may help.

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